Chikankari Care Guide: How to Wash, Dry & Store Your Kurtas

Hand-embroidered chikankari is delicate by nature — but with the right care, a good kurta stays beautiful for years. Here's exactly how to wash, dry, iron and store your chikankari pieces so the threadwork and fabric last.

Chikankari's beauty comes from fine thread worked onto light, breathable fabric. That same delicacy means it rewards gentle handling. The good news: caring for chikankari isn't complicated — it just asks for a softer touch than your everyday cottons. Follow these simple steps and your kurtas will look as lovely on their fiftieth wear as their first.

How to wash a chikankari kurta

Hand wash is best. Use cold or lukewarm water with a mild liquid detergent. Gently swish the garment — never scrub the embroidered areas or twist and wring the fabric, as this can pull the threadwork loose.

• Soak for no more than 5–10 minutes; long soaking can dull colours.
• Wash darker and brightly coloured pieces separately the first few times, in case of slight colour bleed.
• If you must machine wash, use a mesh laundry bag, the gentlest/delicate cycle, and cold water — but hand washing is always gentler on the embroidery.

What to avoid

• No bleach — it weakens both thread and fabric and can yellow white chikankari.
• No hard brushing or scrubbing — bristles catch and tear delicate stitches.
• No harsh wringing — press water out gently instead of twisting.
• No hot water on coloured pieces — it speeds up fading.

How to dry chikankari

Dry your kurta in the shade, not direct sunlight. Harsh sun fades colours and can weaken fine cotton over time. To dry, lay the garment flat or hang it on a padded hanger once most of the water has been gently pressed out. Avoid hanging a heavy, dripping-wet kurta, as the weight can stretch the fabric and distort the fit.

How to iron chikankari

Iron on the reverse side of the fabric at a medium setting. For extra protection, place a thin cotton cloth over the embroidery and iron over that — this prevents direct heat from flattening or scorching the raised knotted stitches like murri and phanda. A light steam helps smooth cotton and muslin without pressing too hard on the threadwork.

How to store chikankari kurtas

• Fold, don't hang delicate pieces for long periods — prolonged hanging can stretch fine fabric. Store folded in a cool, dry place.
• Keep them away from damp, which can cause mildew spots on cotton.
• For white chikankari, avoid storing in plastic for long stretches; breathable cotton or muslin garment bags are kinder and prevent yellowing.
• Add a sachet of dried neem or a mild moth-repellent to your wardrobe to protect natural fabrics.

Caring for different chikankari fabrics

The base fabric changes the care slightly:

• Cotton & mulmul: The most forgiving — gentle hand wash, shade dry, iron on reverse.
• Georgette: Extra delicate — hand wash only, never wring, dry flat in shade.
• Chanderi: Treat with special care — ideally dry clean for festive pieces, or a very gentle cold hand wash; iron on low with a cloth.
• Rayon: Hand wash cold, dry in shade, iron on low — rayon can shrink in hot water.

A few extra tips to make pieces last

• Wash chikankari only when needed — over-washing wears delicate work faster. Airing a kurta out is often enough between wears.
• Treat small stains promptly and gently with a dab of mild detergent, rather than soaking the whole garment.
• Remove jewellery and watches that might snag the threadwork before dressing.

The short version

Hand wash in cold water with mild detergent, never bleach or wring, dry in shade, iron on the reverse, and store folded in a cool dry place. That's it — a little care and your chikankari stays beautiful for years.

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Curious about the craft itself? Read the story of chikankari.