The Story of Chikankari: Lucknow's Living Embroidery
A guide from Layas Marts to the craft behind our most-loved kurtas: where chikankari comes from, how it's made, the stitches that define it, and how to wear and care for it.
What is chikankari?
Chikankari is a traditional hand-embroidery technique from Lucknow, in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. Fine thread — classically white — is worked onto light, breathable fabric such as cotton mulmul, muslin, georgette or chanderi, building delicate floral and paisley patterns through a vocabulary of roughly 32 historical stitches. The word “chikan” derives from the Persian chikeen, meaning embroidery or delicate needlework.
What makes chikankari unmistakable is its play of texture and shadow. Because the fabric is sheer, stitches worked on the reverse cast a soft shadow on the front — an effect no machine print can truly imitate. In December 2008, Lucknow chikan craft received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag from the Government of India, formally recognising Lucknow and its adjoining districts as the home of the craft.
Where it comes from: Persia, the Mughal court, and the Nawabs of Awadh
The most widely told origin traces chikankari to the Mughal court of the 17th century, and to Empress Nur Jahan — wife of Emperor Jahangir — who is credited with encouraging the white-on-white needlework she admired from Persian traditions. Under Mughal patronage the craft was refined for royalty on the finest muslin.
When the Mughal empire declined, the artisans found a new home under the Nawabs of Awadh in Lucknow. It was here, over the following centuries, that chikankari grew from a small repertoire into one of the most sophisticated hand-embroidery traditions in the world. Lucknow has remained its heart ever since, with the old quarter of Chowk as its historic marketplace.
How a chikankari garment is actually made
A single chikankari piece passes through several skilled hands — it is never the work of one person or one machine. The process moves through distinct stages:
- Design & block-carving — Motifs (flowers, paisleys, vines) are carved into wooden blocks.
- Block printing (chhapai) — The fabric is stamped with the design using a temporary, washable blue ink that guides the embroiderer.
- Embroidery — Artisans, the overwhelming majority of them women working from home, hand-stitch the printed pattern. A finely worked piece can take weeks, and the most intricate can take months.
- Washing (dhulai) — The embroidered fabric is washed to remove every trace of the printing ink.
- Finishing — Loose threads are trimmed, and the garment is pressed and prepared.
This human chain is the reason authentic chikankari carries the value it does — and why genuinely hand-embroidered pieces sit in a different band from machine-printed lookalikes.
The stitches that make it real
Chikankari is built from a named vocabulary of stitches, each with its own hand movement and visual signature. A few you'll encounter most often:
- Tepchi — a long running (darning) stitch that forms fine lines and often acts as the base for other work.
- Bakhiya — the famous “shadow work,” embroidered on the reverse so the design floats as a shadow through the front of sheer fabric.
- Murri — tiny rice-shaped knots, typically used to embroider the centres of flowers.
- Phanda — small, dense knots, finer than murri, giving a delicate raised texture.
- Jaali — an open lattice effect created by teasing the fabric threads apart with the needle (never cut), producing a net-like translucence.
- Hool — a fine eyelet stitch forming the centre of a flower.
The interplay of flat stitches, raised knotted stitches, and open jaali work is what gives a real piece its depth. On a hand-embroidered garment the reverse is slightly irregular — a signature of the karigar's hand, not a flaw.
Chikankari today: from white-on-white to every colour
While the classic look is white thread on white or pastel fabric, modern chikankari embraces colour — jewel tones, pastels, and printed bases — and a wide range of fabrics from everyday cotton to festive georgette and chanderi. It now appears on kurtas, kurta sets, co-ord sets, tops, dupattas and sarees, worn for everything from the office and college to weddings and festivals. Its appeal endures because it offers what fast fashion rarely can: breathable comfort, intricate handwork, and an elegance that is quiet rather than loud.
How to style chikankari
- Everyday: A cotton chikankari kurta with leggings, churidars or straight pants, and flat juttis or mules.
- Office: A straight-cut chikankari kurta in a solid pastel with tailored trousers and minimal silver jewellery.
- Festive: A georgette or chanderi chikankari kurta set or co-ord, paired with a contrasting dupatta and statement earrings.
- Fusion: A short chikankari kurti with denim for an easy Indo-western look.
A general rule: because the embroidery is the hero, keep accessories understated. Pearl, oxidised or silver jewellery complements chikankari beautifully.
How to care for chikankari
- Hand wash in cold water with a mild detergent; avoid harsh wringing.
- Do not bleach, and keep it away from hard brushing that can catch the threads.
- Dry in shade rather than direct sun to protect both colour and fabric.
- Iron on the reverse at a medium setting, ideally with a thin cloth over the embroidery.
- Store folded in a cool, dry place; on delicate fabrics, avoid hanging for long periods.
Treated well, a good chikankari piece stays beautiful for years.
Chikankari at Layas Marts
At Layas Marts, our chikankari kurtas bring this Lucknowi tradition into everyday Indian wardrobes — hand-embroidery-style detailing on breathable cotton and rayon, in both classic white and contemporary colours, at honest mid-market prices. We ship across India with Cash on Delivery and free shipping, so you can bring home a piece of this heritage wherever you are.
Explore the collection: Chikankari Kurtas · Kurtas & Suits · Co-Ord Sets
Frequently asked questions about chikankari
Is chikankari hand-made or machine-made?
Authentic chikankari is hand-embroidered. The slight irregularity on the reverse of the fabric is a sign of genuine handwork. Machine-made imitations exist, so checking the back of the fabric is the simplest test.
What fabric is best for chikankari?
Light, breathable fabrics highlight the embroidery best — cotton and mulmul for everyday wear, georgette and chanderi for festive occasions. The fabric must be fine enough for the needle and to show the characteristic shadow effect.
Why did chikankari get a GI tag?
In December 2008, the Government of India granted chikankari a Geographical Indication tag, legally recognising Lucknow and its surrounding districts as the craft's authentic origin and protecting the name from misuse.
How do I wash a chikankari kurta?
Hand wash in cold water with mild detergent, dry in shade, and iron on the reverse. Avoid bleach and harsh wringing.
Can chikankari be worn for everyday and not just festivals?
Yes. Cotton chikankari kurtas are ideal for daily, office and college wear, while georgette and chanderi pieces suit festive and occasion wear.